The Art of the BootAll seven shapes

Shape 03 · anatomy of an icon

The button boot

Victorian precision

A row of tiny buttons turned practical footwear into a carefully considered fashion object.

Pair of American leather button boots from 1868
The Metropolitan Museum of Art, 1868 · CC0

Button boots fitted closely around the ankle and usually fastened at the side. Their many small buttons often required a special buttonhook. Dressing took time, but produced the smooth, controlled line admired in the second half of the nineteenth century.

Many pairs combined two materials or colours: dark leather for the foot and lighter fabric for the shaft, for example. Even though much of the boot disappeared beneath a skirt, it remained a refined expression of taste and craftsmanship.