The Art of the BootAll seven shapes

Shape 07 · anatomy of an icon

The over-the-knee boot

The shaft as a statement

Once a boot rises above the knee, it becomes the centre of the silhouette.

Pair of black leather over-the-knee boots from around 1900 in a museum display
Marshall Astor / LACMA, circa 1900 · CC BY-SA 2.0

Boots extending above the knee long existed as protective footwear for riders and fishermen. In the twentieth century the shape moved decisively into theatre, film and fashion. The tall shaft altered the relationship between clothing and leg, giving designers a new surface to work with.

The over-the-knee boot can be dramatic, but also surprisingly restrained. Soft suede and a low heel create a very different effect from glossy leather and a stiletto. Whatever the version, proportion, fit and movement always matter.